Finally.

Kinja'd!!! "JawzX2, Boost Addict. 1.6t, 2.7tt, 4.2t" (jawzx2)
06/02/2019 at 23:06 • Filed to: None

Kinja'd!!!2 Kinja'd!!! 8

Got all the bugs ironed out of my latest 3D printer up grades... The 250 watt bed heater isn’t trying to set my mosfets on fire any more, I beat back the bug in the AD8495 code in Marlin that kept my new thermocouple from reading temperature correctly, and I squashed the jerk calculation control bug (by enabling an alternate calculation scheme) that was causing x-axis layer missalign ment. I can now run hotend temperatures up to about 370 C, and bed temps as high as 150 C. Nylon is now easy to print with the bed that hot, and Polycarbonate is still a bitch to get the first layer to stick, but damn is it tough and heat resistent! Do I pick up some Ultem or PEEK and try printing a (breifly) functio ning internal combustion engine?


DISCUSSION (8)


Kinja'd!!! Future Heap Owner > JawzX2, Boost Addict. 1.6t, 2.7tt, 4.2t
06/03/2019 at 00:50

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Yes, obviously!!


Kinja'd!!! Future Heap Owner > JawzX2, Boost Addict. 1.6t, 2.7tt, 4.2t
06/03/2019 at 00:51

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Also,  I didn’t know you could print polycarbonate. That’s pretty cool. When I had a Makerbot Replicator 2 for a few months, I only ever tried PLA, and that was hard enough with longer prints.


Kinja'd!!! and 100 more > JawzX2, Boost Addict. 1.6t, 2.7tt, 4.2t
06/03/2019 at 01:40

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Like so many things, I am vastly intrigued by 3D printing, and yet so incredibly turned off by all the complexity in the process. I want to dig into it, but my attention span (and wallet) just don’t have the patience to manage all the nuances.

It really makes me sad, because I really wanna do it.


Kinja'd!!! RallyDarkstrike - Fan of 2-cyl FIATs, Eastern Bloc & Kei cars > JawzX2, Boost Addict. 1.6t, 2.7tt, 4.2t
06/03/2019 at 06:45

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Want to print me some replacement 3D-modelled custom center caps for my rims? :P

Just kidding! It’s cool stuff though! I love 3D printing! I’m not the best modeller in the world, but you can design and make anything if you put your mind to it. I love the fact that it opens a whole new aspect of personalizing your car a little bit.

Our local library has a few and I did design and print some custom Hyundai center caps for my Accent’s originally-Ford rims....they came out great, but PLA isn’t environmentally resistant and they eventually sortof deformed and fell out somewhere. I also have an ABS set, but they are so brittle that most of them are broken from taking them in and out during maintenance...have to get them printed in something more durable at some point!

The original PLA ones (I also had 3D printed valve stem caps then) - each wheel was a different color :P

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The ABS ones (black) :

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Close up:

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Model:

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Kinja'd!!! JawzX2, Boost Addict. 1.6t, 2.7tt, 4.2t > RallyDarkstrike - Fan of 2-cyl FIATs, Eastern Bloc & Kei cars
06/03/2019 at 08:19

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Its possible that PETG might hold up in that use, and its easier to print than ABS, but Nylon would be the way to go... Natural color nylon can be dyed with RIT fabric dyes for custom colors! 


Kinja'd!!! JawzX2, Boost Addict. 1.6t, 2.7tt, 4.2t > and 100 more
06/03/2019 at 08:28

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Yeah, its the reason 3d printing hasnt become the consumer-level game changer that all the tech pundits wanted it be, despite costs that are now within reach of most consumers. Even the “fancy” expensive machines that claim all sorts of automation features are quite fiddly to use, and the inexpensive units like I have require a lot of patience and technical skill to get running and producing reliable results. You really can’t just unbox a 3D printer, plug it in, hit print, walk away, and expect to get usable results. It requires commitment to learning and understanding the systems and materials involved.


Kinja'd!!! JawzX2, Boost Addict. 1.6t, 2.7tt, 4.2t > Future Heap Owner
06/03/2019 at 08:39

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Polycarbonate actually PRINTS very well (as long as you can get nozzle temperatures over 30 0C. It has phenomenally strong layer adhesion and doesn’t string badly ) . The problem is when it cools. Unless it’s recrystalization is very slow and uniform it warps badly. It also doesn’t stick well to most bed surfaces. This means at minimum running a heated bed at 110 C (140 is better) and ideally a heated enclosure as well. With just a heated bed I can get pretty good results with smaller parts, as long as they don’t come unstuck and move while printing... Larger prints in polycarbonate pretty much need a heated enclosure to have any chance of success.


Kinja'd!!! JawzX2, Boost Addict. 1.6t, 2.7tt, 4.2t > Future Heap Owner
06/03/2019 at 08:45

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I'll have to research designs...